A reason to smile: Taylor’s port

Since my visit to Tio Pepe last year I became a very big fan of wines like Sherry, Porto and Madeira (as they are more or less similar products). So I figured now that I was doing a Portugal trip and stopping in Porto, a visit to a Port lodge is just obliged! I am of the opinion that if you do something you do it well and therefore if you want to visit a Port Lodge you visit one that makes a high quality product… which in this case lead me to the Lodge of Taylor’s or better Taylor’s, Fladgate and Yeatman as those are all 3 names of the founders from Taylor’s Port and the full name (FYI, this is still a family owned Brand). First things first, there are a few things you should know about Port wine before we can talk more about Taylor’s itself (although one can’t go without the other 🙂 ).

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I already mentioned it a few times in previous posts , the wine itself gets made in the Douro valley where the grapes are actually picked and later in the process they will be transported to Vila Nova de Gaia to age. Of course there is more to it to make a Port. There around 48 different types of grapes that port makers use to make Port wines, in the case of Taylor’s they only use 10 of those4 white varieties and 6 red of which 30% is still pressed by trampling them barefoot (so not using a machine). The manual trampling is because it gives the best result, not entirely because of tourism. I’m sure you have already heard some people speak about Ruby or Tawny and maybe if you are lucky also about Vintage or LBV (Late Bottled Vintage), but have no clue what the differences are? Well let me enlighten your thoughts by briefly explaining it to you (trying to keep it as short as possible). The most important things to know is that the 2 big port wine “types” or “families” are Tawny and Ruby all the other terms used are usually indicating a special type of those 2…

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Let’s start with Ruby (Vintage) that thanks its name because of its color resembling the color of the ruby stone/diamond . Ruby ages in large(old) barrels (in case of Taylor’s always wooden barrels) as they don’t want a hard wood smell/flavor in the wine. This wine gets made with the best grapes from good years.

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LBV (Ruby style) stands for Late Bottled Vintage. LBV gets made every year from the best Ruby grapes. Once it is put in a bottle it won’t change or age further anymore. Best is when you open the bottle to decant it, otherwise there might get oxidation in the bottle and you will have some expensive vinegar :-). Also the difference with the Vintage would be just like the name indicates is that it is bottled later… It is also important that once you opened the bottle to drink it within 3 months if you want to enjoy it in the optimal conditions and maximum flavors.

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Tawny on the other hand gets aged in smaller wooden barrels (French oak) giving them a slightly woodier flavor, but not too much as they use old barrels. Taylor’s also prefers their wines having a herbal taste instead of a wood taste. Tawny also gets made with a combination of grapes from different years. Differently than Ruby, Tawny does change over the years in the bottle, it will get a lighter color. Tawny is also best served a little bit cooler. It is also best to drink the Tawny within 6 months

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Something you should also know is that Taylor’s doesn’t sell his used barrels like some other Port makers. They re-use their old barrels (they repair them of course) as when they are older than 60 years they don’t give any more flavor to the wines in them… the oldest barrel that still gets used is one from 1864… talking about an investment.

I think this is already a good base for you to know about Port, if you want the Port making process in more detail, please check following link.

The tour around the Lodge was nice, but tasting the finished product is even nicer (also if you do it in company of a real port specialist like Luis Carneiro). As I might have already told, is that Taylor’s Port house is part of a group of Port 3 port houses: Taylor’s, Fonseca & Croft. These 3 together are aka the Fladgate Partnership :-). Which made the tasting better as we tasted all Port from all 3 estates. This tasting taught us that although they all belong to 1 group, each one still has their own identity, tasts and uniqueness. This is first of all  because of the location of each estate and grapes (see on map below), as the altitude, north/south location, types of grapes, etc… will have a big influence on the finished product.

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If we would have to draw a line between the 3 different brands or give characteristics that make them different, I would say that Taylor’s is the most straight and stronger taste (less sweet taste), Fonseca a more rounder and more fruity (a nice cherry after taste 🙂 and slightly sweeter ) and Croft as the sweetest from all 3, but then again also very play full flavors… In general my preference went to the 20 (30 and 40) year old tawny Taylor’s ports and Single harvest Port from 1964 as my favorites because of their round, full and nutty flavor. My fiancée had a bigger preference for the Fonseca & Croft ports, I think because they were a bit sweeter and fruiter… and I think she definitely liked the 2009 LBV from Croft because of its chocolaty flavors :-). One thing is sure that Port wine is best for at the beginning or end of a meal as during it might become a bit heavy (minimum 19,5% alcohol). Like with all things, this is a personal taste… and my biggest problem like with all visits to vineyards is that I want them all in my collection 😦 . That’s it I’m moving to a warehouse 🙂 😉

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FYI, please check following link to find out the best way to serve Port wines. I’m also convinced that if you are not used yet to drink Port wines the best is to start with the White or for example the Bin 27 by Fonseca  or maybe using a Croft Pink in a cocktail (mixed with Tonic water, few leafs of mint and slice of lemon) . After this the next level would be the LBV and if you get used to it the vintages…

I did get hungry from all that tasting, so a “light” lunch at the Barão Fladgate Restaurant in the Taylor’s lodge (open for public). I followed our host on taking a succulent piece of Lombinho meat with a Port sauce, my fiancée on the other hand preferred keeping it light (although she made up for it with a dessert) and took the Turbot with sepia Linguini. For with our 40 year old Taylor Port we chose the perfect dessert for on a summer’s day, they heaviest (but definitely worth it) chocolate dessert from the menu: Chocolate cake with dark chocolate sauce, milk chocolate mousse and white chocolate mousse.

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PEOPLE, please stop seeing Sherry, Port or Madeira as old people drinks!!! Just try a good Port (or Sherry or Madeira) and a whole new world will be opening for you, one with lots of flavors and with lots of history!!! DO IT 🙂 you won’t regret it, I promise you (and don’t buy the junk Ports, buy a good one or try a good one in a place where you know they only serve good stuff)

THE END!

Roadtripping through Portugal: Porto

The last stop on our Portugal trip was Porto. I liked Lisbon, but Porto is more my kind of town… probably because it was a bit smaller (but still bigger than imagined) or because that for some reason lots of landmarks in Porto are build by or inspired by Belgians? Yes, in Porto there are many buildings or landmarks that are build by Belgians. One good example would be the Dom Luis 1st Bridge that connects Porto city with Villa Nova de Gaia, this bridge was build by Théophile Seyrig a partner and former student of Gustave Eiffel (from the Eiffel tower). Another “Belgian” design is the Porto Townhall, which was inspired by either the Brussels townhall or the Antwerp town hall (not sure anymore).

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Town hall

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Just like in Lisbon in Porto you’ll have to climb a bit when getting around in the city due to the hills and Porto might look small but isn’t! What helps is the fact there are lots of ways to get to places without having to climb, like old trams, elevators or the cable cars 🙂 (we’re not lazy, we just do like the locals 😉 ). That last one is nice because it will give some very nice panoramic views over Porto as you take it at the Villa Nova de Gaia side of the city. Also to get a very good overview over the city you might consider taking the Tour buses, I know it is very touristy!! Many years ago I would have never thought of taking them, but they do give you the best general overview and give you the chance to hop on/off where you want and for you to decide what you want to see in more detail in the next days…

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Porto also lends itself for if you just like wondering around in small narrow streets… and the water being always closeby makes it that there is always a nice breeze and during hot days a more supportable heat. There are also many beautiful landmarks (like Palacio da BolsaTorre dos Clerigos and many more) to visit and if you want want you can maybe also take a little boat trip on the Douro river… Do try to get up to the Jardim do Boavista and visit both the gardens and the Mosteiro de Serra do Pilar. From up here you have very nice panoramic views and you’ll learn a lot about the history of Porto (visit costs 1 euro, guided tour 3euro).

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What’s the difference between Porto and Villa Nova de Gaia you might be asking yourself? Well the biggest difference would be that you at the Villa Nova de Gaia side you’ll find all the Port wine makers and at the Porto city side you won’t :-). As you probably all read in one of my previous posts, the Port wines get and always got made in the Douro Valley and were transported over water to Villa Nova de Gaia to age. The reason they brought it to Villa Nova de Gaia and not to Porto city is because the Gaia side has less sun shining on it during a day and therefore has a better temperature for the Port wines to age… A view I like is when you are standing at the waterfront in Porto city (right next to the Dom Luis Bridge) and you see all the Port winemakers ‘bill boards and Lodges… but both sides of the city have the same high picturesque level if you ask me…

Vila Nova de Gaia

As Porto is right at the Ocean, having a city trip combined with time at the beach seems like a good idea… although you could just go to the seaside at Porto city aka Foz do Douro , I would recommend you to go to Matosinhos or Madalena (where we went) as there you’ll find more peace and quiet and to my opinion more beautiful sandy beaches.

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Now my favorite part to talk about, the food! Just like during our whole trip the red wire in the food is simple food full of flavor. You know when you sometimes are craving for a burger but somehow it feels wrong eating it in southern countries where they have so much great local food? Well we did feel it, but didn’t last long after passing by Munchie on the Praca Filipa de Lencastre (close to av. dos Aliados) our craving only became bigger… I would say, just go for it as you won’t regret it (we didn’t 🙂 You’ll be able to make it a whole burger feast, they have some real beauties on the menu. FYI, in the back of the restaurant they have lots of seating (just FYI , as you don’t notice it from outside)

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If you feel like having more refined food I can recommend you one (or all) of the following restaurants: DOP (the first Rui Paula restaurant), Pedro Lemos (a rizing star who for sure will be awarded with Michelin star and a favorite amongst the Portuguese). I can also recommend a meal at the Taylors Port lodge restaurant (more details about this restaurant in my next post).

Pedro Lemos restaurant

The cherry on the cake in Porto would be The Yeatman which is the only Michelin star awarded restaurant in Porto and is part of the 5 star luxury hotel (same name)  with the best view over Porto. What makes the Yeatman hotel so special is that it is seen as one of the best wine related hotels in the world known for its winetourismn (also to get SPA treatments using winerelated products). Although the Yeatman hotel is part of the Taylors & Fonseca Port group, it has a connection with vineyards from whole Portugal. In their wine cellars for example they have one of the biggest collections of Portuguese wines. The hotel also has partnerships with many of Portugal’s finest wine producers who actively participate in The Yeatman’s wine tastings, seminars and wine dinners (I think every wine maker has to at least give 1 or 2 dinners per year in this hotel). These partner wineries  also sponsor individual rooms and suites (so all rooms have instead of numbers the name of a vineyard) that are decorated with pictures and objects  from each of these winery’s unique history and give a unique touch to each guest room. This shows that Portuguese winemakers stick together even-though they are competitors! FYI you can also buy wines from these partner in the hotel wine shop. I must admit that it is a superb hotel, but rather to the expensive side to stay at… but you only life once I always say 😉

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The yeatman hotel

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The yeatman cellar

Try to avoid the tourist traps I’d say 🙂

My next blogpost will also be my last blogpost (for now) about Portugal and I couldn’t think of a better way to end  than with a post about Taylors Port 🙂

Stay tuned….