Time to put the sommeliers in the spotlight: Pedro Ballesteros

Pedro Ballesteros also know as a human encyclopedia when it comes to Spanish wines 🙂 (even for all other wines I must admit). Yes indeed, we pulled out the big guns again… And yet I can confirm that Pedro is a very humble and modest man!! I already had the pleasure to dine together with Pedro as we sat next to each other during a dinner from the Spanish Cava association at Chalet de la ForĂȘt.

Pedro Ballesteros

Cesar & Pedro

The least you can say is that for the past 25 years Pedro has been a very busy bee 🙂 He has studied all over the world (Spain, France, Belgium, US, Austria and Germany) with as some accomplishments his WSET Diploma, Weinakademiker and became Master of Wine (1 of 3 in Belgium) and I’m not even mentioning all his master degrees. Professionally he is very dedicated to the environment and energy (which is his reason for living in Belgium as he works for the EU). He‘s also a columnist for Spanish and Belgian magazines
 Pedro also is consultant for the Institute of Masters of Wine, the governing board of the Spanish Taster Union, and the wine expert committee of the Basque Culinary Centre
 and the list goes on and on 🙂 AND he has found time to answer my 10 questions!!

pedro_ballesteros by reiberadelduero

What is your favorite wine region to work with?

For reasons of nationality I work a lot, with enjoyment, with the main Spanish regions. But  I am also very fond of classic German regions. And of Burgundy. And Champagne. And Bordeaux. And Tuscany, Campania and Piemonte. And Georgia. And Chili….
Honestly, one of the reasons why I enjoy wine is the diversity. My favorite exercise is to go from one region to another.

What does it take to be a good sommelier according to you?

I admire sommeliers because they have decided to develop their professional lives in a most demanding environment: extremely competitive, with much intrusism, requiring long hours and continuous updating, dependent on the success of the chef, quite exigent in terms of physical fitness…..

It takes much to be a good sommelier. I would highlight three things for good sommeliers: curiosity, courage to innovate and humbleness to put all your knowledge at the service of people for whom wine is secondary: the restaurant owner and most clients. I would add one more for the best: empathy with people.

Is the job of a sommelier underestimated/valued?

 Yes. Very few sommeliers own a restaurant. This is a major reason for underestimating sommeliers. Then, wine is presented as a company to food, rarely the other way around. Wine is then ancillary in most clients minds. Finally, most people are still very conservative with beverages.  They are not yet ready to embrace the levels of innovation that they enjoy with food. Sommelier’s stellarship will come when innovation in beverage is welcome. Soon, I hope.

When and how did you get the passion for wine?

 When I was studying Agrofood Engineering I got to learn about fermentations, and got hooked to the magic of those processes  (I am yet hooked). Then I learned viticulture and got in love with the vines. And only later, when I had already decided to dedicate much of my life to wine, did I begin to enjoy tasting and drinking wine.

Who is your big example in the wine/sommelier world?

I mention three. Pitu Roca as the perfect sommelier in the restaurant (El Celler de Can Roca). Eric Boschman as a wonderful  example of a communicator reuniting deep knowledge and great empathy. Gérard Basset as the model for supuration.

Pitu Roca

What is your approach for pairing wines(or other beverages) with dishes?

Depends on the place. At restaurant, the high cuisine scene now is quite innovative and challenging. People go to restaurants to experience, they look for innovation. Wine cannot be foreign to that. I think that the role of wine is less to be paired and more to be part of the experience.  This is very interesting for sommeliers, who find more room for creation. With the best sommeliers, I love being served the wine blind.

At home I am quite relaxed. We tend to eat simple things, lots of pasta and so on. Then, if I want to open a particular bottle I open it, that’s all.

Which wine region would you recommend everybody to visit and why?

 I would recommend to dedicate a life to visit wine regions….I would not pick a single region.

For which wine would you make a big sacrifice to be able to taste?

 I would like to get to know well very old Rieslings. Also to understand well the differences between the grand cru wines at Vosne-Romanée.

But in general I think that wine is so great that no sacrifice must be made for it.

Vosne-Romanée

What is your most wonderful memory of hotel management school?

 I did not study there.

A culinary or wine experience everybody should have had besides have a meal at your restaurant, shop, winery, etc..?

Those rare times when wine is the vehicle for sharing feelings and more, in two.

Time to put the sommeliers in the spotlight: Arvid Rosengren

There are a lot of sommeliers that I had on my list that I wanted to ‘interview’ and one that absolutely had to be on the list was this year’s winner of the title ‘Best Sommelier of the world’ Arvid Rosengren. I have never witnessed the World Championship, but if I already see the difficulty level on country level (in Belgium)
 I can only imagine how difficult it must be on the international level.

Arvid Rosengren 2

What surprises me even more is that Arvid is only 31 years old!!! An impressive age to already be working on this level… Arvid currently works (already some years)  in the trendy NYC restaurant Chalie Bird (a neighborhood restaurant that combines great food and a fun and in my eyes has something Scandinavian over it) as wine director. What is funny about this is that the reason for Arvid to move to NYC and to work there is just because some friends of his said he had to do it 🙂

If you would want to know Arvid’s whole carreer I would suggest reading his biography 🙂

I very glad that just like with all the other sommeliers Arvid found the time to answer 10 questions to find out more about the life as sommelier.

Arvid Rosengren

What is your favorite wine region to work with?

To be a great sommelier, you have to be an omnivore, and love all kinds of wine. I do have particular strong feelings for Piemonte, Jerez, Mosel, Northern RhĂŽne, Galicia and the Loire valley among others. However, the most fun, infuriating, difficult yet rewarding region to work with is Burgundy. The level of complexity is just unparalleled.

What does it take to be a good sommelier according to you?

An almost impossible combination of varied and sometimes opposing skillsets. Passion, empathy and humility are the most important. But to be great you of course need knowledge too, as well as organizational skills and fundamental understanding of economy.

Arvid by ASI

Is the job of a sommelier underestimated/valued?

I think it’s depending on where you are. In some markets it is undervalued and underdeveloped. In others the sommeliers are approaching the level of rock star chefs.

When and how did you get the passion for wine?

I was always intrigued by flavor and aromas, so I tasted wine from a young age (but not great wine for sure). I really got serious when I was 20 and started working with wine. I never went back.

Who is your big example in the wine/sommelier world?

There are so many role models. Gerard Basset, Andreas Larsson, Bobby Stuckey and Richard Betts are all people I admire and look up to, for different reasons.

Paolo basso_Arvid_ Gerard Basset

What is your approach for pairing wines(or other beverages) with dishes?

Easy does it. I used to taste through hundreds of bottles to find the right 5 to serve in a wine menu. What I figured out is that even though we put crazy effort into it, people’s taste is still subjective. So pairing for me is foremost about good wine and good food, and avoiding the most common pitfalls and disasters.

Which wine region would you recommend everybody to visit and why?

So many choices! Jerez probably. It is such a special place, and so hard to understand just from reading about it.

For which wine would you make a big sacrifice to be able to taste?

Haha, I’ve been pretty fortunate in being able to taste most of my dream wines. There are of course bucket list wines that are, like 1945 RomanĂ©e Conti that I would love to get a chance to try

Romanée Conti 1945

What is your most wonderful memory of hotel management school?

Not hotel management, but Culinary school! We were a small group that got hired by a local hunting farm to organize small dinners for their clients. We went totally overboard with everything… crazy decorations using half of the forest, stuffed animals etc, different every day.

A culinary or wine experience everybody should have had besides have a meal at your restaurant, shop, winery, etc..?

I often get asked what is the best wine I’ve ever tasted and usually it’s impossible to say, I’ve tasted a lot, forgotten a lot too. But I think I can answer that since last year, when I tasted with GĂ©rard and Jean-Louis Chave in their cellars in Mauves after a brutally hot day of walking the vineyards. The bottle of 1978 Hermitage that GĂ©rard opened for us will always hold a special place in my heart and memory.

Hidden treasures: Wines from Valtellina

I like wines from all over the world, I’m not a wine snob nor am I too chauvinistic but most of my preferred wines come from Italy 🙂 . That I’m a big fan of Valpolicella wines you already found out when I spoke to you about my wine trip through the Valpolicella wine region. The wine region that is on top of my list (and I have to admit also lays closest to my heart) is Valtellina! It is not only my preferred region because my family roots are here (most of my family lives in Valtellina), but also because this region produces the most wonderful wines!!

Valtellina

valtellina 2

For many people it is still an unknown region and lots of times a forgotten region, unfairly if you ask me. I’m also not sure why this region isn’t more well known? Valtellina is a small region in the moutains in the North of Lombardy somewhere inbetween the Como lake and the Swiss border. Valtellina is mostly known amongst ski lovers as Valtellina has some of the most renowned ski areas in the world with towns like Bormio and Livigno (also known as it is taxfree) as the most famous.  Every time I visit this region I fall in love with it over and over again.

Bormio bagni caldi

Bormio 2000

Bormio 2000 2

The wines in the Valtellina region are mostly made with the Chiavennasca grape that is better known as Nebbiolo
 YES indeed the grapes used to make that other Italian beauty called Barolo 🙂 . In this region however the wines go with names like Sassella, Inferno, Valgella and Sforzato which are bascially the names of area’s between  Villapunta and Tirano with exception for Sforzato. The Sforzato wine is the Valtellina version of Valpolicella’s Amarone. Sforzato gets made in the same way by using partially ‘dried’ grapes aka the appassimento method (The drying process concentrates sugars and results in higher alcohol wines).

apassimento by consorziovini valtellina

vineyards by valtellina

The wine estate that has put the Valtellina wines on the map on an International level (and I think everybody agrees on this) is Nino Negri. I’ve known Nino Negri my whole life as my dad also used to sell their wines in his restaurant
 mainly because back then you didn’t find any other producers from the region in Belgium, but also that to my opinion they were and still are one of the best producers in the area. I wouldn’t be able to name a favorite from their gamma as I like all, but if you are a wine lover do try their Le Tense, Mazer, Sfurzat and if the budget allows it the 5 stelle which is an indescribable beautiful wine. It does warm up my heart that more and more wines from other wine producers from Valtellina found their way to Belgium  or even to other countries all over the world. All or most Valtellina winemakers have joined forces and created a consortium that represents the whole wine region. I see this as a positive thing as together they are stronger then separately.

Nino Negri

5 stelle

When I am in the region I do always try to taste as many “new” producers (or maybe just ones that I didn’t know about). A few weeks ago (as you might have see on my FB or Instagram) I was in Valtellina for a family visit with my dad. Normally my babygirl was coming along, but unfortunately she became ill the night before leaving
 so she stayed at home with my wife. I was sad she couldn’t come, but at the other hand this way we had the liberty of visiting some wine estates 🙂 🙂 If it were up to me I would have visited many more, but our main purpose for travelling to Valtellina was to visit family and the vineyard visits had to happen in between the family visits.

family time valtellina

Nonna

Initially I planned to visit 3 vineyards: Rivetti & Lauro, Balgera and Menegola. However we sadly didn’t manage to visit the last (Menegola) due to time issues, but I’m really sad about it because I was really looking forward to it
 next time without any doubt!!!

menegola07

The diffrences between the Rivetti & Lauro estate and Balgera couldn’t have been bigger. Rivetti is only producing wines for 3 years, whereas Balgera was one of the first estates to make wine in the region and it now already the 5th generation of winemakers. Balgera is rather a classical style wine maker who respects the traditions, Rivetti on the other hand is a more modern estate that experiments with new methods and grapes
. I wouldn’t say that I prefer one over the other. They both have a different style of wine and depending on the circumstances I’ll prefer drinking one over the other 🙂 but I guess that’s the case with every wine

Balgera rivetti & lauro

To be continued
.

Time to put the sommeliers in the spotlight: Fiona Morrison

You might have noticed that the sommelier or even the wine world is mostly lead by men. The number of lady sommeliers is not as high as we would like it to be… although the tables are turning as more and more ladies are finding their way towards the wine/sommelier industry. The sommelier I want to put in the picture today is the one and only Fiona Morrison!!! A role model to lots of ladies (and men) in the wine industry!! Fiona is one of only three Masters of Wine in Belgium and the only woman. Next to that writer of MANY wine articles and books (for which she received the James Beard Award and the Prix Lanson), she creates wine lists for SN Brussels Airlines, is a wine consultant at Christie’s, gives conferences, is a Trustee of the Institute of Masters of Wine and a newly elected member of the Academie Internationale du Vin, a high powered wine think tank. She also is a regular judge at the Best Sommelier of Belgium contest.

Fiona Morrison

As if all of that was not enough Fiona’s main occupation is helping her husband (the one and only Jacques Thienpont) to make the wine and manage their three estates that I think need no introduction: Le Pin (Pomerol – one of or if not the most renowned/exclusive wine house from Pomerol), L’IF (Saint Emilion) and Chateau Goubau (CĂŽtes de Castillon). And in between all of that she still found some time to answer my 10 questions!!

Jacques Thienpont

Chateau Le Pin

What always fascinated me about Fiona is the fact that she speaks British English, makes wine in France and lives in Belgium 🙂 🙂  (or at least she commutes between her homes in Bordeaux and Belgium). One day I’ll find out what the story is behind that 😉

What is your favorite wine region to work with?

I obviously spend most of my time working in Bordeaux; making wine, buying wine, visiting producers and selling wine from there – I came of ñge with Bordeaux and I know it intimately. However I love working with our fabulous collection of Burgundy estates and my interaction with them gives me so much pleasure.

What does it take to be a good sommelier according to you?

I would rate personality and communication skills above knowledge. If you don’t have the right way of communicating with your clients and transferring your knowledge in a clear way, then all your training and tasting is worthless. As a client,  you can tell immediately if the sommelier has the right attitude.

Is the job of a sommelier underestimated/valued?

No.  I think today thanks to the World Sommelier competition, the Master Sommelier exam, the film “Somm”, the rîle of the sommelier is better understood and appreciated than ever before.  Today, sommeliers are more important than the wine press in spreading the word about new wines, starting new trends, pointing out forgotten treasures.

Somm film

When and how did you get the passion for wine?

I was lucky to grow up in a household where wine was a part of most meals. Sunday lunches were always a time when my father opened a great bottle of wine.  At University there was a Wine Society; I finally came to run it and with a team, won several blind wine tasting competitions against other universities.  The rest is history!

Who is your big example in the wine/sommelier world?

I have enormous respect for Gerard Basset – he is ambitious but very humble still and I love his enquiring mind and his attitude to wine. I also believe that sommeliers take themselves to seriously sometimes, my antidote to that is William “Pazzo” Wouters who I love to laugh with – alongside a great bottle of wine of course.

Gerard Basset

What is your approach for pairing wines(or other beverages) with dishes?

I am so curious that I’m always trying new things. I look much more at the texture of the dish and the type of sauce it is served with rather than whether it is a steak or a sole.   I often think of wine as that crucial squeeze of lemon on fresh fish – it brings out the freshness and the flavour of the dish without overwhelming it.  Of course, wine should then be able to be tasted for its own merits so I look for “food wines” with good acidity, fresh fruit, balance and elegance – I am not a great fan of oak or extraction and I don’t feel that I have to play by the rules.

Which wine region would you recommend everybody to visit and why?

Here I would have to say Bordeaux. First of all, the city of Bordeaux is drop dead gorgeous now that it has had a make-over and has so many great bars and restaurants and places to visit (check out the new Cité du Vin).

Then there are so many legendary places to visit – a drive up the D2, the route de chateaux to see all those famous names – Margaux, Palmer, the LĂ©ovilles, the Pichons, Latour, Lafite, Cos – the list goes on.   A visit to the Right Bank is made spectacular by the medieval beauty of St. Emilion and the rolling vineyards and countryside.  Entre-deux-Mers has great castles and bike trails and very democratically priced wines.  In fact , there are  so many different styles of wine at so many price points that there is a wine to suit every budget and taste.

For which wine would you make a big sacrifice to be able to taste?

I was born in a great vintage, so I love it when I have a chance to get my hands on that.   I also adore the wines of Egon Muller:  his Scharzhofberger vineyard is fabulous and I have had the great chance to taste some historic older vintages.  Once you have tasted a great wine, you want to repeat that expérience again so I am often making big sacrifices for the sake of great bottles!!

What is your most wonderful memory of hotel management school or viticulture studies?

It was the camaraderie of studying so hard for the Master of Wine exam and knowing that so few of us would make it that it made our tastings, courses and lectures so intense and wonderful. I am so proud of the Master of Wine institution and the way it can open up the lives of wine professionals to a new way of thinking, tasting and communicating about wine.

A culinary or wine experience everybody should have had besides have a meal at your restaurant, shop, winery, etc..?

Some of my most vivid culinary and wine memories are those that were the most simple, often experienced “alfresco” as a picnic or barbecue. I remember lobster bakes on the beach in Maine with a stash of old Burgundies from the 1960s that I bought as an odd lot at an auction and we drank out of  old goblets;  I remember end of harvest barbecues with freshly picked cepes served raw with olive oil and salt and young Le Pin.  You don’t need too much ceremony or a white tablecloth to have a legendary expĂ©rience
..although a dinner with Josep Roca when he paired the best of Spanish wines with his brother’s cuisine came pretty close.

Josep Roca by Fundacion excelencia

Time to put the sommeliers in the spotlight: Yanick Dehandschutter

Yannick Dehandschutter is the next sommelier to answer my 10 questions. Yanick is the sommelier/owner of wine restaurant Sir Kwinten where I personally like to go a lot. I met Yanick when he was competing for the title of “Best Sommelier of Belgium 2013-2014” or better, I was one of the judges grading him 🙂 What I liked about Yanick was his smoothness of doing everything and his strong social skills, he won that year so I guess I wasn’t the only person with that opinion.

Yanick best sommelier of belgium

When you ever have the chance to eat at his restaurant you’ll see that when he gives you more info on the wine he serves it is like he is reading you a story or poem! He also likes to surprise his guests, he sometimes serves a wine without telling  what it is for you to find out what it is… time over time you’ll be surprised about which wine it turns out to be. With me one of the greatest discoveries was a white Belgian wine, I literally bought the vineyard’s last bottles of that wine afterwards 🙂

Crutzberg

Next to the title of Best Sommelier of Belgium Yanick has lots of other awards and prices that he can show off with 🙂 Not that he does it, but fi I would have that many awards I think I would 😉 😉 . What I admire in people like Yanick (and all other top sommeliers), is their passion!!! Passion is always the best drive for success!!!

Yanick

What maybe not every knows yet is that Yanick will also be making his debut on the national cooking channel NJAM! The sky is the limit I’d say.

Yanick op Njam tv

The questions:

What is your favorite wine region to work with?

I’m of the principle that a good sommelier must be ‘open’ for everything that gets made. That’s why I obligate myself to serve/pair wines from totally different regions with our menus.

As long as the wines were purified with respect for the terroir and local grapes I’m happy :-). I notice that I’m usually more tempted in staying in Europe with y choice of wines and less with wines from outside of Europe. For the moment my favorites to work with for white wines is Austria and for the reds Piemonte.

What does it take to be a good sommelier according to you?

Knowledge of wine regions, grapes and vineyards are the base for a strong/good sommelier. Next to that ‘social skills’ are very import for me.

A sommelier should be able to pass the correct information to the customer in a pleasant understandable way. I think that it is also important to be able to estimate a customer’s ‘wine profile’, is a customer more classic or does he rather prefer something new, does he like a lot of info or non… you should feel it.

Is the job of a sommelier underestimated/valued?

No, not to my opinion. Today people are much more ‘gastronomically educated’ and know that it’s not an easy sector. It demands 200% of passion and dedication. Because our sector gets put in the spotlight more often people do get more respect for the job and the people doing this job.

Especially the young generation seems very interested and shows a lot of respect for all we do. It must also be said that the knowledge about culinary products in general has improved enormously amongst people and they’re able to valuate/appreciate the quality.

When and how did you get the passion for wine?

My Parents are already in the restaurant business for more than 30years, so I basically grew up in it. For my 10th birthday we went to a Michelin starred restaurant and it really rocked my world, from that moment it became my favorite hobby ;-).

During my period I spend in hotel management school I didn’t really had a preference, I like both working in the kitchen as serving people in the restaurant. It was at the age of 14 that I started tasting more wines and that’s when I knew this would become my favorite 🙂 . After my specialization year in hotel management school the passion only grew…

Who is your big example in the wine/sommelier world?

I have lots of respect and admiration for all passionate winemaker on our planet that make it possible for us as sommelier to serve and offer a wonderful product.  I also believe more and more in a better cooperation between sommelier and winemaker. We as sommelier can help blending and advice the consumer’s needs , a winemaker from his side can give us much ‘extra’ technical knowledge that in the end makes us a better sommelier.

What is your approach for pairing wines (or other bevrages) with dishes?

Taste and most of all testing. It has occurred lots of times that the things that seem obvious actually don’t work together/match and vice versa. I think that this is the point where a sommelier has the liberty of playing around and should dare to innovate and make unexpected matches.  It speaks for itself that before you serve this pairing to your customers you should be 100% behind this decision. This is definitely one of my favorite subjects, but it is obviously something personal and complex.

Which wine region would you recommend everybody to visit and why?

Piëmonte, beautiful region, top gastronomy and the wines obviously!

For which wine would you make a big sacrifice to be able to taste?

It is always a unique experience to be allowed to taste Selosse Champagne after a long aging in the cellar at the right time. To my opinion a remarkable product!

Selosse champagne

What is you most wonderful memory of hotel management school?

During my specialization year I was allowed to participate in the CÎtes du RhÎne Challenge in Avignon, together with my teacher José Lemahieu, a man for whom I have an enormous respect (especially for this passion and knowledge about wine! We won 1st place, I was only 17 years old and it is something I will never forget. Truly a wonderful experience!

A culinary or wine experience everybody should have had besides having a meal in your restaurant, shop, winery , etc…?

Skiing  is a one of my favorite hobbies, preferably in Austria. I just love it to sit on a sunny terrace after having skied a few hours and open a top bottle of  Paul Achs, a Prager or Knoll I recommend to everybody 🙂

Burgerista delight in Salzburg

I remember when still travelling with my parents to Italy, we would never make a overnight stop. Would drive in 1day from Belgium to our destination or at least in the beginning, when my parents got older this changed. When my wife and I travel (and we’ve been together for 17years already) by car we always do it in 2 times. Especially now with our little girl it still like the best option, as otherwise you’ll arrive or come back home with more stress than before. The first day I do drive the biggest part, have a good dinner and night of sleep and continue the next day to drive a few more hours to arrive at our destination. This time we made a stop in the beautiful Salzburg (Austria) aka the town where Wolfgang-Amadeus Mozart was born :-). It wasn’t our first time to stop here on our way to Italy, so we did already know our way around the picturesque town. The only point of discussion last time we were here was where to have dinner 🙂 . I normally do my homework, but when we were here a few years ago I just didn’t do it. This time I did write down a few places to make sure I had a “plan B”. Another extra point of attention this time is that we were not just us 2 anymore and let’s just say that a 1 yr old isn’t made for having long meals in a posh restaurant 😉 🙂

In the end I didn’t need my “plan B” as while walking around in the old part of Salzburg city we saw a very nice looking hamburger restaurant called Burgerista. I know it isn’t very Austria-like, the place just looked good and let’s be honest who doesn’t like a fresh “home-made” hamburger??  As it was still a bit too early to eat and our sweet little monkey had fallen asleep (moments to cherish 🙂  ) we thought a nice glass of wine or bubbles seemed like a great way to start our holiday
 especially after such a long drive we deserved it. This brought us to Wein & Co that remembered from last time we were here.  Wein & Co is a wine bar/wine shop with a very nice wine selection for everybody’s taste and wallet 🙂 (from Austria and abroad). Definitely a place to recommend!

Wein and co2

Wein and co

When our little angel woke up, it was time to finish our drink and set sail to Burgerista. A place that somehow reminded me of “Lunchbox” a burger restaurant we go to from time to time in Antwerp. Burgerista was everything we hoped for!!! Juicy burgers, child friendly and nice place to sit


Burgerista 1 Burgerista 2 Burgerista 3

They had a very nice selection of both classic burgers as a few “special” burgers and even a custom build burger where you can choose yourself what you want between those buns 🙂 🙂

Juicy burger 1 Juicy burger 2 Juicy burger 3

A juicy burger obviously needs a good sauce or better a home-made sauce. I now they had lots of nice homemade lemonades, but for me a burger needs a coke
 for me this is like a horse and carriage 🙂

homemade sauces

There was 1 thing that every hamburger restaurant should have, a sink in the restaurant itself to wash your hands with good smelling soap to get rid of the fatty smell of your fingers 🙂  I know I could easily go to the toilet to wash them, but sometimes laziness wins


Sink

VERY satisfied we had a nice walk to our hotel to have a good night sleep to continue our road towards Friuli Venezia Guilia.  Can’t wait for my next Burgerista